I have taken over the build and web site for JZRUSA The continuation of this build will be posted on this blog. I feel it is important to do this for those others that are building one. What I present here is just my way of doing it. I don't claim to be any kind of expert so take this for what it's worth. It's free. To zoom pics click on pic then right click on pic, click "view image", click on pic.
Friday, May 24, 2013
MORE WIRING
On advice from a buddy ( thanks David) I removed the wiring harness tubes and re-routed most all of the wires to make things a lot neater as shown on the left. There are still a couple of more to move to finish it all up but they have to be extended to do so. I like this much better.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
MORE BITS
I forgot to mention the oil pressure sender. The Guzzi comes with an oil press. switch and idiot light. The thread for this is M12-1.5 and an adapter to 1/8 pipe thread is available at Speedway Motors. They also carry the M10-1.5 adapter. I used an Autometer press. sender that is 240-33 OHM resistance to match the gauge. The sender is ugly so I chose to mount it further back out of sight.
LOTS OF BITS SORTED OUT
The front fenders came in yesterday and will look great. They are polished aluminum.
And I got the rear fender mounted too.
The gauge set came with an oil temp. gauge so I made up this sender. I took the oil drain plug and drilled and tapped it for the 1/8 pipe thread.
When I went to lub the front wheel bearings I found there was no way to remove the bearing cup so into the lathe it went. I machined a taper on the big end to expose the edge of the the cup. Then bore out the center until the front cup edge is exposed. Now both cups can be knocked out. This is a specially made hub that puts the splined hub closer to the upright and reduces scrub radius.
Next is to tighten up all the brake lines and bleed the system.
And I got the rear fender mounted too.
The gauge set came with an oil temp. gauge so I made up this sender. I took the oil drain plug and drilled and tapped it for the 1/8 pipe thread.
When I went to lub the front wheel bearings I found there was no way to remove the bearing cup so into the lathe it went. I machined a taper on the big end to expose the edge of the the cup. Then bore out the center until the front cup edge is exposed. Now both cups can be knocked out. This is a specially made hub that puts the splined hub closer to the upright and reduces scrub radius.
Next is to tighten up all the brake lines and bleed the system.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
SMOKE TEST
This week I did the smoke test on the wiring and the only thing that worked was the air compressor. After some head scratching and study I found that 2 relays had wires reversed on 2 contacts. Suddenly everything came to life. I need to add some ground wires to the headlights and finish the tail/tag light and all will be well.
From here I can add fluids to the brakes and bleed them; add oil and gas and give it a crank!!!!!!!
WOW. That should happen early June if all goes well.
From here I can add fluids to the brakes and bleed them; add oil and gas and give it a crank!!!!!!!
WOW. That should happen early June if all goes well.
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