MORE ON BODY FASTENERS

For the front panel horizontal surface I machined some pins that screw into rivnuts that are set into the frame tube. Hitch pins then insert into the pins. With the Dzus fasteners the 1/4 turn part is riveted to the fiberglass and the rivet has to have a clearance hole in the plate. I had to bend the stock plates to lower them and provide a weld surface.

BODY FASTENERS

Today I started on the fiberglass panel attachment. After considering all my options I decided on Dzus fasteners. Anything I could think of would have drawbacks, i.e. screws back out from vibration, latches stick out and catch your pants etc. These really work great; I had them on a Formula Jr. years ago and have always liked them.

I picked up some plumbing insulation today too and it looks like it will work great when wrapped with leather or vinyl. It comes already slit to fit over the edge. On the area between the front and rear glass panels I'll rivet a 1x1x1/8" angle that will take the foam also.

BONNET BADGE

I wanted a nice badge for the front of the bonnet and so I came up with a design and made one. It measures 6-3/4" by 2" by 1/4" thick.

I've gotten a price for laser cutting the parts if anyone is interested.

I've also gotten 10 Dzus fasteners to hold the fiberglass panels on so that's the next project.

DRIVESHAFT TUNNEL

This build came with a very nice driveshaft tunnel that was all powder coated and fitted to the chassis. The only problem was that my wife couldn't fit into the right side seat without lifting a cheek, if you know what I mean.

I knew right away that she would not be happy riding any distance sitting like that so I figured out  way to give her some more room. After some cuts, some new riv-nuts and some screws I got another inch of width in the right seat. You cannot imagine how happy she was that I did that for her. Lots of good points scored there. I should be able to work that one for some time to come!

The tunnel had to be wide in the forward area because of the starter motor reverse device but aft of that there was about 1-3/16" of wasted space between the tunnel and the driveshaft.

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY

I've been playing around on the Racing Asperations web site and made a model of my suspension. The tires are not quite right so the ground clearance is high but otherwise it is close. See:
http://www.racingaspirations.com/mods/wqropwz7

Here is a link to the original JZR suspension the way I bought it. Pull straight down on the chassis and see how the track width changes. The tie rods would then cause bad bump steer.
http://www.racingaspirations.com/mods/dz6zox7b

Here is a way to to fix it by raising the upper ball joint by 1" or so. This makes the a-arms parallel. This is better than the original but not as good as the first example.
http://www.racingaspirations.com/mods/ruhtdedr

I did another test run in a parking lot where I could cut some circles. The car handled great. I could not get out of 1st gear so the engine overheated soon and I stopped. I'll get a video linked up soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDGLRn9ndw0&feature=youtu.be

FRONT FENDERS

This week it's been front fenders. I first made struts from 1/4" X 3/4" Alum. flat bar. When I slapped the fender it wobbled a lot so I started over and machined new ends that are pressed into a 5/8" OD tube. These are a good bit stiffer; still bounce around but are better. Underneath the fender I bent a 1/8" X 3/4" steel flat bar that bolts to the fender and to the strut.

Note: After finishing this all up I stood back to admire my work and noticed that the fenders fitted nicely over the tire. That look is great but I would not be able to remove the wheel without removing the fender first; not good.

REVERSE MOTOR UPDATE

I found that the thin floor will distort quite a bit when the motor is energized. I ended up adding a 1/8" plate under the motor and bolted it through a cross member tube nearby. Underneath the bolts screw into a 3/8" plate at each end. This makes it all much more sturdy. There is a lot of force put against the motor mounting plate and floor under it. Eventually the floor would work harden and crack.