MORE WIRING

On advice from a buddy ( thanks David) I removed the wiring harness tubes and re-routed most all of the wires to make things a lot neater as shown on the left. There are still a couple of more to move to finish it all up but they have to be extended to do so. I like this much better.

MORE BITS

I forgot to mention the oil pressure sender. The Guzzi comes with an oil press. switch and idiot light. The thread for this is M12-1.5 and an adapter to 1/8 pipe thread is available at Speedway Motors. They also carry the M10-1.5 adapter. I used an Autometer press. sender that is 240-33 OHM resistance to match the gauge. The sender is ugly so I chose to mount it further back out of sight.

 

LOTS OF BITS SORTED OUT

The front fenders came in yesterday and will look great. They are polished aluminum.

And I got the rear fender mounted too.

The gauge set came with an oil temp. gauge so I made up this sender. I took the oil drain plug and drilled and tapped it for the 1/8 pipe thread.

When I went to lub the front wheel bearings I found there was no way to remove the bearing cup so into the lathe it went. I machined a taper on the big end to expose the edge of the the cup. Then bore out the center until the front  cup edge is exposed. Now both cups can be knocked out. This is a specially made hub that puts the splined hub closer to the upright and reduces scrub radius.

Next is to tighten up all the brake lines and bleed the system.

SMOKE TEST

This week I did the smoke test on the wiring and the only thing that worked was the air compressor. After some head scratching and study I found that 2 relays had wires reversed on 2 contacts. Suddenly everything came to life. I need to add some ground wires to the headlights and finish the tail/tag light and all will be well.

From here I can add fluids to the brakes and bleed them; add oil and gas and give it a crank!!!!!!!
WOW. That should happen early June if all goes well.

WIRING 2

After another week of wiring I have a lot more circuits run and some tidying up work. What's left now is the lights front and back and the air compressor wiring.

WIRING STARTED

I've been working on wiring for the last couple of weeks. It's a slow go but I'm moving right along. I am not able to instal a floor dimmer switch due to lack of space. Instead I have found a latching relay. This is connected to the cruise control button on the turn signal stalk. A momentary push flips the relay from high beam to low beam, back and forth. Here is a link to it:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/R3018.oap?pt=01839&ppt=C0111

This is how it is wired. The power input, 56, should come from a normal on/off relay triggered by the headlight switch. Jump 56 to 30. The signal is"S" and 56a and 56b are for hi and lo lights.

Most of the circuits for the engine are started and wires run. The lighting will take some time and lots of wire.

ENGINE TURNING

The dash that came with the car has been kicked around for 10 years and got pretty scratched up so I decided to redo the engine turning. Everyone seems to have an opinion on how to do this so here is my opinion (not really mine I researched and liked this one the best). The tool is nothing more than a 3/4" wood dowel. I used fast setting superglue to attach a 3/32" thick disc of leather to one end and used Permatex course valve grinding compound. I had to play with this for a bit until I got the pressure and dwell time right; then went at it. It took probably most of a day to do.

Next I can cut holes for the instruments and start wiring. Thanks to Roland for assisting me with the alternator wiring.