While driving I noticed a whine in the rear and figured it was the final drive. Along with all the stuff I got was a nicely powder coated final drive that was partly reassembled. After checking the mating of the gears and replacing seals and tweaking a ting or two I got it all back together and installed. I haven't driven it yet so I hope the whine is gone.
I have taken over the build and web site for JZRUSA The continuation of this build will be posted on this blog. I feel it is important to do this for those others that are building one. What I present here is just my way of doing it. I don't claim to be any kind of expert so take this for what it's worth. It's free. To zoom pics click on pic then right click on pic, click "view image", click on pic.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
FUEL HOSE/BRAKE HOSE
Found something interesting yesterday working on carbs. the fuel in the carb was orange!! The fuel in the tank is clear.
Also the hose from the remote brake tank to master cyl. was sweating brake fluid and dripping down on the panel below. The brake fluid color was also a dark orange. To be accurate there are 2 different size hoses on the brakes. The leaking one is an SAE 30R6 hose and is the same as the fuel hose. The other hose is an SAE 30R7; the newer grade hose. The fuel and brake fluid were dissolving the hose.
I have changed the brake feed hose to a clear vinyl and will change the fuel hose to the 30 R7 which is supposed to be compatible with Ethanol fuel.
Also the hose from the remote brake tank to master cyl. was sweating brake fluid and dripping down on the panel below. The brake fluid color was also a dark orange. To be accurate there are 2 different size hoses on the brakes. The leaking one is an SAE 30R6 hose and is the same as the fuel hose. The other hose is an SAE 30R7; the newer grade hose. The fuel and brake fluid were dissolving the hose.
I have changed the brake feed hose to a clear vinyl and will change the fuel hose to the 30 R7 which is supposed to be compatible with Ethanol fuel.
Monday, June 24, 2013
PARKING BRAKE BUILD
The Guzzi Convert model had a manual parking brake caliper mounted on the rear brake bracket. These are hard to find and I've been looking for one for the last 2 years. Several came up on e-bay last month and I was able to get one. For other than Guszzi applications this is available:
http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/120-2373/
The next issue is how at actuate it. A Ford 1930-32 has a nice handle with ratchet but I couldn't find one so I made my own. I next need to find a cable; a Guzzi clutch cable is long enough I think.
http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/120-2373/
The next issue is how at actuate it. A Ford 1930-32 has a nice handle with ratchet but I couldn't find one so I made my own. I next need to find a cable; a Guzzi clutch cable is long enough I think.
Thursday, June 6, 2013
THE DAY EVERYONE WAITS FOR!
Yesterday I cranked it up for the first time. I always get a rush from that. Today I took it for a short test drive. Wow, that was amazing; it all worked just great. I did notice a little noise from the driveshaft, the brakes need more bleeding and the turning radius is too big so there's some more work to do. other than that all went well. Click the video link "First run" below.
First run
First run
Friday, May 24, 2013
MORE WIRING
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
MORE BITS
I forgot to mention the oil pressure sender. The Guzzi comes with an oil press. switch and idiot light. The thread for this is M12-1.5 and an adapter to 1/8 pipe thread is available at Speedway Motors. They also carry the M10-1.5 adapter. I used an Autometer press. sender that is 240-33 OHM resistance to match the gauge. The sender is ugly so I chose to mount it further back out of sight.
LOTS OF BITS SORTED OUT
The front fenders came in yesterday and will look great. They are polished aluminum.
And I got the rear fender mounted too.
The gauge set came with an oil temp. gauge so I made up this sender. I took the oil drain plug and drilled and tapped it for the 1/8 pipe thread.
When I went to lub the front wheel bearings I found there was no way to remove the bearing cup so into the lathe it went. I machined a taper on the big end to expose the edge of the the cup. Then bore out the center until the front cup edge is exposed. Now both cups can be knocked out. This is a specially made hub that puts the splined hub closer to the upright and reduces scrub radius.
Next is to tighten up all the brake lines and bleed the system.
And I got the rear fender mounted too.
The gauge set came with an oil temp. gauge so I made up this sender. I took the oil drain plug and drilled and tapped it for the 1/8 pipe thread.
When I went to lub the front wheel bearings I found there was no way to remove the bearing cup so into the lathe it went. I machined a taper on the big end to expose the edge of the the cup. Then bore out the center until the front cup edge is exposed. Now both cups can be knocked out. This is a specially made hub that puts the splined hub closer to the upright and reduces scrub radius.
Next is to tighten up all the brake lines and bleed the system.
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