I have taken over the build and web site for JZRUSA The continuation of this build will be posted on this blog. I feel it is important to do this for those others that are building one. What I present here is just my way of doing it. I don't claim to be any kind of expert so take this for what it's worth. It's free. To zoom pics click on pic then right click on pic, click "view image", click on pic.
Tuesday, December 10, 2013
GLOVE BOX/TOOL BOX
Saturday, December 7, 2013
Friday, December 6, 2013
REAR PANEL SUPPORT
The hoop tube behind the seat is a long way from the rear panel so I thought it a good idea to give it some support. I just know everyone getting in the car will push on that rear deck to support their weight. Here is my solution.
MORE ON BODY FASTENERS
For the front panel horizontal surface I machined some pins that screw into rivnuts that are set into the frame tube. Hitch pins then insert into the pins. With the Dzus fasteners the 1/4 turn part is riveted to the fiberglass and the rivet has to have a clearance hole in the plate. I had to bend the stock plates to lower them and provide a weld surface.
Wednesday, December 4, 2013
BODY FASTENERS
Today I started on the fiberglass panel attachment. After considering all my options I decided on Dzus fasteners. Anything I could think of would have drawbacks, i.e. screws back out from vibration, latches stick out and catch your pants etc. These really work great; I had them on a Formula Jr. years ago and have always liked them.
I picked up some plumbing insulation today too and it looks like it will work great when wrapped with leather or vinyl. It comes already slit to fit over the edge. On the area between the front and rear glass panels I'll rivet a 1x1x1/8" angle that will take the foam also.
I picked up some plumbing insulation today too and it looks like it will work great when wrapped with leather or vinyl. It comes already slit to fit over the edge. On the area between the front and rear glass panels I'll rivet a 1x1x1/8" angle that will take the foam also.
Monday, December 2, 2013
BONNET BADGE
I wanted a nice badge for the front of the bonnet and so I came up with a design and made one. It measures 6-3/4" by 2" by 1/4" thick.
I've gotten a price for laser cutting the parts if anyone is interested.
I've also gotten 10 Dzus fasteners to hold the fiberglass panels on so that's the next project.
I've gotten a price for laser cutting the parts if anyone is interested.
I've also gotten 10 Dzus fasteners to hold the fiberglass panels on so that's the next project.
Sunday, November 3, 2013
DRIVESHAFT TUNNEL
This build came with a very nice driveshaft tunnel that was all powder coated and fitted to the chassis. The only problem was that my wife couldn't fit into the right side seat without lifting a cheek, if you know what I mean.
I knew right away that she would not be happy riding any distance sitting like that so I figured out way to give her some more room. After some cuts, some new riv-nuts and some screws I got another inch of width in the right seat. You cannot imagine how happy she was that I did that for her. Lots of good points scored there. I should be able to work that one for some time to come!
The tunnel had to be wide in the forward area because of the starter motor reverse device but aft of that there was about 1-3/16" of wasted space between the tunnel and the driveshaft.
I knew right away that she would not be happy riding any distance sitting like that so I figured out way to give her some more room. After some cuts, some new riv-nuts and some screws I got another inch of width in the right seat. You cannot imagine how happy she was that I did that for her. Lots of good points scored there. I should be able to work that one for some time to come!
The tunnel had to be wide in the forward area because of the starter motor reverse device but aft of that there was about 1-3/16" of wasted space between the tunnel and the driveshaft.
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