Friday, March 3, 2017


Originally I set up the shift arm pointing out to the left which made 1st gear pull back on the shift lever. That is not intuitive and I've always regretted not figuring out how to do it the other way. David from France suggested turning the arm the other way. That looked like it wouldn't work as the firewall was in the way as was the rear of the tranny if mounted in that direction.

Well, a little of head scratching, contortion, welding and cursing it now fits and works GREAT. The first pic shows how I did the first time using a clevis at each end of the shift rod. Lots of slop.

I cut off the end of the arm and welded a new piece on that shortened the arm so that it could be mounted facing the other way and still allow mounting the ball joint. Here is the cut off end and the new welded end with ball joint.
Here is a pic of it installed and that was a tough job to reach in there with two wrenches to tighten it all up.
So, was it worth the trouble, absolutely. The shift is now in the right direction, the slop is gone and the feel is way, way better.

Saturday, February 25, 2017


I have been setting 1/8"+ toe out as suggested in the JZR forum. The car drove OK but the steering was a bit twitchy. I tried setting to 1/8" toe in and it made a remarkable difference.  The car is much more stable now and the twitchy steering is gone. Well, how about that?


I've been fighting a problem for the past year and I think I've finally solved it. When cornering hard the fuel would be thrown against the vent side of the carb to the inside of the curve and be forced out the vent. I think also a syphon would start and suck all the gas out of the carb. Coming out of the corner the inside cylinder would be dead and would take 10 to 20 seconds to start firing again.

I researched this to a great extent including contacting and the Triking forum. No solution offered did the trick. I tried cutting down of fuel pressure on the Holley pressure regulator but that made it worse. I tried looping the vent hoses high over the carbs and then down. That seemed to help but not solve it. Finally someone suggested bringing the vent tubes up high and into a catch can so no syphon could be started. Well that plus increasing the fuel pressure to 3# solved the problem. Hard cornering without a miss.

Sunday, August 21, 2016


I got the rt. side finished today but still have to get a set of bolts to fit the caliper. I'll use 3/8" bolts and make a sleeve to go on them to tighten up the fit. I hope to have the other one by maybe Tuesday and will take it for a test drive.

Took the test drive today and the brakes are fantastic. Wow, does it stop now and much less pedal pressure. I can lock the wheels if I push too hard. Better tires might prevent that. I think 32mm pistons would do just as well. This is an area where you don't know till you try it but I'm happy.

Saturday, August 20, 2016


I was not happy with the look of the Suzuki calipers and will send them back. I bought, instead, a pair of Ducati Monster calipers with four 34mm pistons and four pads per caliper. Much higher price but larger pistons so more braking effort than what I had. The Suzuki calipers have four 32mm pistons and 108mm bolt spread. The Ducati has a 100mm bolt spread. Both are about the same size but the Brembo ones are a tiny bit smaller
The 3x3x1/2" aluminum angle will be made into the mounting brackets. I roughed out one today. I plan to add Drillium to it to lighten it up and do some contouring to it also.
I think these will look great when all finished up which should be early next week.

Thursday, August 11, 2016


I haven't posted for some time because I've just been driving and the car has, for the most part, has performed beautifully. The one exception has been the front brakes. The calipers I got with all the parts were from Wilwood, an aftermarket supplier. They have turned out to be not up to the job. They will stop Ok but in a panic stop I have to really push hard on the pedal and the calipers over heat, boil the brake fluid and then tend to lock up. Following that they start to leak fluid. The calipers I got are described on the JZRUSA page.

So, I have had enough and have bought new calipers.
These are from a Suzuki 600, 750 and 1300 Hayabusa bike on ebay. They have 4 pistons with 32mm pistons, similar area to the  Wilwood units and larger pad area than the Wilwood units.

Some notes on caliper area/pad area.
A single piston floating caliper with a piston area of, say 2.4 sq. in., is the same as a caliper with 2 pistons with 2.4 sq. in. area each. A 4 piston caliper with a single piston area of 1.4 sq. in is still the same as all the above. You take the number of the pistons on one side of the caliper and figure their area to find the force the caliper can create. A 4 piston caliper will have larger pads due to the larger spread of the 2 pistons on each side. Look at the width of the caliper on the web site above and look at the calipers I just bought. The piston area of the new ones is 2.5 sq. in. but are much wider.

Now for the myth of pad area. If you double the pad area you will not change the pedal effort required to stop the car!!! I know, this doesn't make sense but it is physics 101; trust me or look it up. So, what does happen by increasing the pad area is that heat is dissipated better and pad life is extended. Of course all the above requires the same master cylinder pad composition and the same pedal force. There are some other very small bits that affect pedal pressure but the above are the main areas of concern.

I'll post photos as I make the brackets and mount the new calipers. BTW the brake hose hookup will be really simple.

Saturday, November 21, 2015


I've had a handling issue for most of this year. When accelerating and decelerating the car would pull to the right and to the left and when braking it would pull left. I got stuck with the idea it was the rear wheel not being in line with the chassis. After measuring the alignment of the rear wheel I found it was off by about .029"; not bad.

I then looked at the left front brake and found that the caliper bracket was not square to the rotor and that the caliper was not sliding well on it's mounting bolts. There is the problem; a dragging brake pad. This too would make the car pull each way when giving it gas and letting off and when braking. Sure enough, new pads, caliper seals, shims on the bracket and reaming the slide holes fixed it all. It now drives straight all the time.

Now I'll go back and play with toe out and tire pressures some more and see what happens. Probably nothing but I think it's worth a look.